It’s a cold and dreary early November opening day for Squatter’s Cafe at KDHX, formerly Magnolia Cafe. Inside however, it’s warm and bright, and an inviting blend of aromas fill the space. I sit on the red leather couch, sipping my spicy chai latte as the 88.1 FM KDHX station plays. Customers cozy up to the bar and chat with chef Rob Connoley who is more than enthusiastic about the revamped cafe. He makes his rounds and asks each diner about their meal and explains where the ingredients came from and where he got his ideas, exuding the rare glow of someone who’s truly passionate about their career. I overhear him explain that “there’s good ingredients, good technique, interesting stuff.” He even gives a customer a “tour” of her jar of yogurt without spoiling the “surprises” that lie inside.
Connoley’s vibrant breakfast and lunch menu focuses solely on providing exceptional, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. His ricotta toast topped with pickled vegetables is a work of art, proving that fresh and healthy meals can be interesting and innovative, too. Everything except the bread is made in-house, and in an effort to support sustainable dining, all dishes are served in glass jars or disposable containers. Other menu items include a duck hash over shoestring sweet potatoes, pork and duck cassoulet with soup dumplings and breakfast sidewalk tart with pesto and caramelized onion. A full bar is stocked to accompany shows at The Stage, making the cafe an inviting space from morning till night.