Cheese-Ology proprietor Bill Courtney describes his love affair with macaroni as an “unnatural obsession.” With the opening of his new themed restaurant on the Delmar Loop, Courtney has taken this obsession to an art form, serving up 15 gourmet varieties of this deliciously cheesy dish. Student Life sat down with Courtney to sample the cuisine and learn how this Wash. U. alum came up with the idea for an all-macaroni and cheese menu.
Originally a researcher in Washington U.’s genetics department, Courtney began moving away from the scientific field when he realized the slim job prospects in the current economic climate. On a trip to New York City, Courtney and his wife waited in line for 20 minutes in front of S’Mac, a macaroni and cheese restaurant in the East Village. Courtney didn’t think much of the experience and continued his job search upon his return to St. Louis. After an increasingly discouraged Courtney sent out more than a hundred applications, his wife made an offhand suggestion that changed everything: “Why don’t you just make macaroni?”
For Courtney, this cheesy suggestion could not have been a better plan. He perked up as he described the moments after this revelation, saying that he immediately began thinking of recipes. Courtney’s first macaroni and cheese innovation, the “Philly Cheese,” came to him while on a layover in the Philadelphia airport. The ingredients were simple—steak, peppers and American and provolone cheeses. Other “Macs” took more effort to develop, such as the four-cheese. Bill explained that in order to have a cohesive flavor, the base cheese had to melt well. He found that provolone worked best after extensive testing, adding Gruyère, a Swiss cheese with “zip,” Muenster for “zest” and goat cheese for an additional “tang.”
Other flavor combinations soon followed, ranging from tuna salad variety to a vegan offering. However, one theme ties all of the dishes together: quality. Everything is made from scratch. With the exception of Courtney’s “Vegan Mac,” all recipies start with the same homemade sauce base of butter, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. All the cheeses are hand-shredded, and Courtney uses simple Barilla elbow macaroni. Each dish is made to order and baked right in front of the customer.
But Courtney’s attention to detail and quality doesn’t end there. All of the marinara and other sauces are made from scratch on the Hill.
Even the beverages come from just minutes away. Courtney offers the entire line of Fitz’s soft drinks as well as locally brewed Schlafly beers.
“Craft beers settle well with the macaroni, and there would really be no reason for mainstream beer,” Courtney said.
Courtney’s devotion to the business appears to be paying off. Though Cheese-Ology opened June 29, Courtney said that customers have already come in flocks and responded positively.
Drawn in by curiosity, Wash. U. junior Harrison Gross dined at Cheese-Ology shortly after arriving on campus for the fall semester.
“[Macaroni and cheese] is just a basic food. It’s not too fancy, but it’s always comforting,” Gross said when asked about the restaurant’s appeal.
It doesn’t hurt that the leftovers are great too—30 seconds in the microwave and a stir later, we’re told, the dishes taste the same as when they were just made.
As for the future of Cheese-Ology, Courtney plans to expand into the takeout business. Before Thanksgiving, he hopes to offer “take and bake trays,” served both in individual orders and in pan sizes serving 12-15. Beyond that, Courtney added that he has more than 150 recipes in the back of his mind, so we’re sure to see some surprises in the future.